In her essay about this dish in Home Cooking (which must've originally appeared in Gourmet, but I can't find it, but that's what compilations are for), Colwin says that the first time she was served it, it "made me want to sit up and beg like a dog" for more.
Cook the spinach, drain, and save 1 cup of the liquid. Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour. Blend and cook a little. DO NOT BROWN. Add onion and galic. Add one cup of spinach liquid slowly, then add evaporated milk, black pepper, celery salt and cheese. Add one or more Jalapeño peppers (how many is a question of taste as well as what kind. I myself use the pickled kind, from a jar.), and the spinach. Cook until all is blended. Turn into a buttered casserole topped with buttered bread crumbs and bake for about 45 minutes at 300°.
I myself (I myself above being Colwin) have made this with fresh spinach instead of frozen, half & half instead of evaporated milk, veg broth instead of spinach cooking liquid, and pepper jack cheese instead of plain with added Jalapeño peppers. And it is always good. I have never put in the celery salt, though.
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